Be it ever so humble...

We arrived home safe and sound guided by a full moon.  The flight from London to Boston was smooth and we even managed to get some shuteye - I wouldn't go so far as to call it sleep.  The plane landed a half hour early.  We breezed through customs with our new Global Entry pass, and our driver was waiting for us when we wheeled our duffels outside.  No traffic, in the house by midnight. What a joy to sleep in our own bed.  Up early this morning - still on African time.

As I have expressed several times during this journey, it was simply amazing.  From the cities to the bush, from the homes to the resorts, from the ocean to the mountains, we saw and did so much.  You never know what will happen when you start these trips.  Guide books can only go so far but it is really the people that you meet along the way that enhance the experience.

That being said, we would really like to thank all of our ATC hosts who treated us with loving care.  It was like leaving family every time we drove away.  Another big thank you goes out to Elmor and his crew at GO SELFDRIVE TOURS who helped us before and during our trip to make everything smooth and insure that we had a good time.  Even during the bumpy times, of which there weren't many, they were there to listen and help.  Our total gratitude to our guides and drivers who could not have been more helpful in their wish to please their clients. It is because of them that we were able to experience the amazing wildlife of nature.  Thanks again and again to Diane and Tim for keeping the roof on the house.  And, of course, thank you to all of our family and friends who travel with us.  Your comments both on the blog and the pictures are such a joy to read when we are so far away.

This is beginning to sound like an acceptance speech but I've got one more.  A great big thanks to my brother, Jerry, for picking up the phone every Monday morning so I could hear his voice.  And 

speaking of Jerry, it is wash time!  

Till next time....

We're Going Home..

There was no fancy African cocktail last night.  Apparently the continent doesn't have a blender.  They do like their milkshakes, however.  We had been meaning to try one and just never got around to it. Maybe next time.

When traveling on a long trip, it seems endless.  You are on the go so much and then one day you are sitting in an airplane on the way home and thinking - did we really do and see all that?  I suppose we did.  Another really great experience.  No real injuries - not even one mosquito bite between the two of us - of course, I might get DEET poisoning, but at least it won't itch.

We woke up really early today - always anxious going home.  Checked out and grabbed our to go
breakfast, which we really didn't need since the British Airways lounge was open.  We had to ditch it anyway since they put ham inside when we specifically said "no meat".  Hung out in the lounge for a bit and headed to the plane.

Sitting on the plane now drinking champagne waiting for take-off.  Next stop - London.

Landed safely - one more flight to go.  We are at the Heathrow lounge with about an hour to kill before we board.  The skies are grey and the temperature is definitely cooler. 

Be home at around midnight. 

Next time... Be it ever so humble..

The Journey Home

CLICK HERE:  TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM 

We start the long trek home today.  Thankfully no 5 am alarm this morning.  We were able to sleep a bit later.  Our driver wasn't coming till 8:30.  We grabbed a quick breakfast, did our last minute packing, and met the jeep at reception.  Retraced out way back to the Botswana border crossing, got our passports stamped and the onto the ferry crossing and there was no ferry.  Actually there was, but he took off as soon as he saw us.  I asked Lance, the driver, why didn't that guy take us across - "Oh, he's with another company".  I wasn't really buying that considering he is the only game in town, or rather, on the water.  Lance made a phone call or two and guess what, here comes Mr. Ferry Guy again. The same guy that took us across four days ago and said we weren't on his list.  Guess he really loves screwing with the tourists.  Finally boarded the boat, said goodbye to Lance and said hello again to Clive who was waiting on the other side.

While driving to the Zambia border crossing, Clive happens to mention that our univisa does not cover our re-entry into Zambia.  It was going to cost us another $100 to get back into the country. This is the first we had heard of this fee.  Nowhere in all the literature we received does it say we have to pay another $100 to get back into Zambia.  In fact, it was made very explicit that we make sure we get a univisa that covers Zambia, Zimbabwe, and we thought, Botswana.  Clive said the problem was that we stayed overnight.  If you just go over for a day, you don't have to pay.  The univisa cost us $100.  We paid the fee and as soon as I could, I emailed Elmor and explained the situation.  Clive says it is all part of the African experience - thanks a lot!


The drive to the airport took about an hour. Clive went through his neighborhood and showed us where he lives and where his son goes to school.  Of course, we arrived here early and we are now sitting with a cup of coffee waiting to board.  This flight is only about an hour and a half - should be in Jo'berg by around 3.  Hope there's time for a dip in the pool.

It was a pretty smooth flight to Jo'berg.  We flew over the Falls and I couldn't resist getting a few more shots.  It is something to see. Landed on time, went through customs, and we were able to walk straight through to the hotel. Checked in but the room was like a sauna with the sun pouring in.  We were told they could change it a bit later.  So we got our suits out and hung by the pool. The water was ice cold but felt very refreshing.  After a while we went back to the desk and they gave us a new room on the shady side.  Quite comfortable with all the usual fixings.  I have to say this place is better than I expected for an airport hotel.

We will eat at the hotel tonight.  Maybe I'll get my African cocktail as a farewell to Africa.  Up early for a 7:40 flight back to London and then on to Boston.  Should get in the house somewhere around midnight if we are lucky.  Big thanks to Diane and Tim, our friends who watch our house every year. The heat is back on and there's milk in fridge!

CLICK HERE:  TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM 


Next time... Home, Sweet, Home

The Last Hurrah!

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM

We were up at 5 am for our eleventh and last game drive.  I can't say how many jeeps were out front but there was definitely enough for a parade.  This morning's guide was Gee.  He was very good but tended to speak in the third person - which kinda cracks me up.

We had a very special sighting of two hyenas.  They are very rare to see during the day since they are usually nocturnal animals.  Gee spotted them from far off and raced like the wind to get to them in time before they scattered off into the bush.  Then, of course, there was the usual hanging around - elephants, hippos, giraffes, etc.  Spotted a very cute owl in a tree when we stopped for a coffee break.  There was a rumor that a leopard was seen crossing a road - off we all went barreling through the bush but to no avail.  If the leopard was there, he was either hiding or had left.

We were on our way back to the lodge, when we ran into African gridlock.  Lions.  All the jeeps were huddled around this one pride.  Looked like mostly females lying very close by the buffalo herd.  We counted six.  We observed them for a while and then we had to get back, the Aussies needed to catch their plan to Jo'berg.  That will be us tomorrow morning.  We won't be going on the morning game drive however.  I think we have reached our limit.

Back at the lodge, we had enough time to eat breakfast and change for the next activity - our private boat tour.  Met up with Mike around 11 and boarded a smaller but similar boat to the one we took the first afternoon.  By this time, we really knew the lay of  land and all the stories.  It was getting hot. and we didn't really expect to see anything we hadn't already.

I wanted to see a croc in the water and we did see quite a few of them.  I was only able to get pictures of two.  They go under pretty quick when they want.  Mike also spotted a monitor - another reptile creature that eats crocodile eggs.  The crocodile, in turn, will eat the monitor!  And, of course, the elephants.  I promised I would take no more pictures of these guys. But, honestly, you really can't help yourself.

One new species for us was the red lechwe, another antelope.  This one is aquatic and swims out to the island to feed and is safe from the big cats.  When the island gets flooded it has to swim back to the mainland.  If he makes it past the crocs, he has the lions and leopards to contend with.

We stayed out for two hours.  It was pool time.  Unfortunately, it was right around the high traffic time of day.  We took a quick dunk, dried off for a bit and headed to the bar for lunch.  After lunch we tried to hang by the pool for our last couple of hours but it was pretty hectic.  Besides all the people, there is a lot of construction going on in this place.  They have to get all the repairs done before the rains come.  The construction noise got to be a bit too much so we headed to the room.

Resting now in the comfort of our own lodgings enjoying the animals our front and the quiet.  We plan to check out the sunset bar tonight.  We just discovered this place in the morning when I was looking for the spa.  I wanted to check it out for later.  While walking to the spa we saw signs for sunset bar - something else no one told us about.  Found the spa, which is in a renovated old boat (I think I am going to pass on that) and kept walking till we found the bar.  It is situated in the perfect place for sunset.  I hope it is open later.

Yes, it was definitely open.  I was so looking forward to a fancy Botswana cocktail, but alas, no fancy cocktails here.  Well then a vodka and soda will do just fine.  We sat and watched the sun go down along with the sun tours out on the water.  Not as dramatic as Tsitsikama, but beautiful nonetheless. 

Dinner was very crowded tonight, mostly with tour groups.  We are ready to leave tomorrow. Sweet dreams.

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM

Next time... Back to Jo'Berg

Gone Fishin'

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM

Happy St. Pats to all you Irish out there.  And a big HAPPY BIRTHDAY to Geoff's brother, Andrew.

I admit yesterday I was a bit cranky.  It is getting down to the last couple of days and I'm getting a little weary.  It has been quite a journey.  Speaking of journey - fun facts:  moving giraffes are called a journey, standing giraffes, a dazzle of zebras, a gang of buffalo, a bask of crocodiles, a parade of elephants, a pod hippos, a leap of leopards, pride of lions, cackle of hyenas -- that's all I can remember at the moment.

Lying in bed watching the baby baboons playing in the grass with the warthogs. Cool. Getting ready to see what the fishing is all about.  No flies, just lures. We met up with our fishing guide, Nevin, shortly after breakfast.  He is a local from Namibia with a small fishing skiff.  Geoff and I each took one of the high seats.  Nevin told us that this is the worst time of year to fish for tigers.  Great.  So we were reduced to trolling.  He gave us each a rod with two different color lures and putted along to the Namibia side of the Chobe River.  I got a hit pretty early on but lost the darn right as it got close to the boat.  Really wouldn't have mattered much.  I think the lure was bigger than the fish - no much of a trophy photo.  The next hit came not too far after.  Again, I got him up to the boat and then he jumped off.  This one was bigger but still nothing to write home about.  The third time's a charm.  The fish struck, I hooked him good, and landed him in the boat.  Not a trophy but a good picture none the less.  This is catch and release - so back in the water he went.

Up and down the river we went passing crocodiles and hippos.  It was very beautiful and peaceful. I felt bad for Geoff.  I figured I had the good lure, so we switched rods. Yup, sure enough he hooked one. But the only thing that came up was an eyeball!!  Somewhere out there there is a fish with one eye who is not too pleased.  Geoff's next hit was a real beautiful looking tiger fish.  We think on the skinny side of 3 pounds.  That was pretty exciting and the highlight of the fishing excursion. We were back at the dock by 10.

Today was a lot better at the lodge.  This morning at breakfast we were the only people there at 7am and not many more were there when we returned at 10.  Don't know where they all went and we really didn't care.  We picked a couple of chaises and jumped in the pool to cool off from trolling in the sun. We had a good deal of peace just to sit and read until about noon.  Then the day boats started coming.  They all are here for the buffet lunch as some sort of day trip.  Good time to go to the bar and have a quiet lunch there. We had a nice lunch from the ala carte menu and nobody bothered us.  Another dunk in the pool - check out the jacuzzi, and it was time to get ready for our next activity - game drive.

The game drive in the jeep is pretty much the same as the game drive in the boat except from a different perspective. We had a full jeep of 10 people plus the guide, Mbara.  I know there was an Aussie family but not sure where the others were from. We drove down along the river, seeing most of the same creatures. We did see lots more crocodiles today and the elephants were having a bit of fun with us.  Jumping out from the bushes and trumpeting.  The same animals but always beautiful.  Our search for the lion and leopard didn't pan out.

We were making our way back, when Mbara got the jeep stuck in the sand.  The sand was very high and he slowed down to talk about the birds. The next thing - we stuck!  He got out - which we are told is a complete no no - and let some of the air out of the tires.  Still no luck.  Only one thing for it - everybody out and push. Well this was a first. It wasn't going so great and then someone noticed that the jeep wasn't in four wheel drive.  What the????  These jeeps are old with manual 4 wheel drive. Apparently, it was originally in gear when we got to the park and when Mbara switched it, he really took it our of gear instead of putting in 4 wheel drive.  Phew!  We all jumped back in accompanied with a couple of pounds of sand and we were on our way. 

We passed a pile up of jeeps waiting for a single lioness to make an appearance. It was getting late for us, so we gave up and drove back stopping for sunset on the way.  As it was, we got back a half hour later.  Mbara really wanted to find that lion.  I also think he felt bad about getting stuck.  I bet that doesn't happen twice.

Back at the lodge, showered and went straight to the buffet.  Still lots of meat - some of it we just saw in the park.  I really think that is not good policy but then again I don't make the policy.  We were able to fill up on all kinds of salads - some better than others.  The atmosphere is nicer here than across the street - you get to look at the river.  It is also a bit cooler.

We have one more game drive in the morning and then a private boat tour (which probably goes to the same place) just before lunch.  Then the rest of the day we are free to veg and stare at the day trippers.

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM

Next time ... The Last Drive

Going to Botswana

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM
WARNING:  There are graphic pictures of elephants

Clive came to pick us up to take us to the Zambia border where we will be handed over to anotherdriver in Botswana.  On the way, he kindly stopped at the Jewish burial ground.  Here there  many of the Jews who helped Zambia for the fight for freedom.  It is a small little plot in the  middle of nowhere.  If you didn't know it was there, you wouldn't know it was there. Right now there are only about 140 Jews left in Zambia. We just stopped for a while to pay our respects and off we went.

The border was totally bonkers. They are in the middle of building a bridge to get across but right now every takes some sort of ferry - that includes these huge trucks.  The lines go on forever on both sides.  Got our passport stamped on the Zambia side and Clive took us to our private ferry.  Put on the luggage, said goodbye to Clive (although we might see him on the way home), and the nice man took us across.  When we were in the middle of the Zambezi River, we were actually bordering four countries:  Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Namibia.  When we got to the other side, the guy in the boat said that he did not have a Susan on his list.  He showed us the list and he was right.  We looked at each other.  What do we do now?  Fortunately, our driver, Kennedy - thought that was pretty funny - showed up and we got off the boat.  I was a bit worried there for a while. Went through Botswana customs and had to clean the bottom of our shoes before entering the country. Protection again contamination.

Arrived at the Chobe Safari Lodge around noon.  There are lots of activities here and it feels somewhat like camp.  The first thing we  had to do was sign up for some of our activities.  We chose the 3pm boat cruise and fishing in the morning.  Then we were shown to our room.  The room is lovely and has a great view of the Chobe River.  The lodge, however, leaves much to be desired.  There is a small pool - no towels that we could find.  The worst of it is the day visitors. Boat loads of people come in for lunch and swarm the pool and restaurant area.  I did not know about this before booking and I made it clear to the agent we were happy with the situation. 

At 3pm we were down at the dock and boarded our boat for the river cruise.  This is more of a water safari.  We was a whole herd of elephants doing a whole bunch of national geographic things. In the Galapagos we called them two story penguins.  I've never seen two story elephants. It was quite something.  Even the guides were stunned.  This doesn't happen out in the open usually. Besides the elephants we saw hippos, birds, a couple of baby crocodiles among other things.  It was very relaxing and the scenery is gorgeous.  No bumpy African massage from those jeeps.  The cruise lasted till around 6pm and it was back at the dock.

Getting ready for dinner, we discovered our neighbors out on the lawn.  Lots of warthogs and baboons have a grand ole time eating and playing and watching the sunset. As for dining, this lodge only has buffet style eating - no fish and lots of meat. There is an a la carte menu at the bar which we might try tomorrow.  Tonight we went to the sister restaurant which is across the street up the hill, they serve a la cart. The food was not very good.  Not sure what we will do tomorrow but we will figure it out. Till tomorrow.

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM
WARNING:  There are graphic pictures of elephants

Next time... Fishing the Chobe River

Game Drive/Rhino Walk

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM

Clive met us this morning with a jeep and Patrick, our guide.  With all the different combinations of safaris and rhino walks, we chose a drive safari with a short walk to see the rhinos at the end.  It turned into a pretty successful day.

The Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park is the second smallest park in Zambia  You could say that this was Safari Lite.  No cats so no need to go searching for them.  Patrick is very knowledgeable in all the flora and fauna as well as birds.  We saw a few we hadn't seen before and learned about some of the trees of Zambia. The Mopane and Baobab trees are both used for medicinal purposes. The Baobab tree is sometimes called Livingstone's tree. Elephants also like to eat the bark for healing.  The Combretum imbebe tree has a four or six sided fruit that when dried is used as a substitute for coffee or tea - no caffeine but a similar smell.

We stopped along the Zambezi River and spotted a few hippos across the way.  Had a drink and

Patrick contacted the rhino folks to find out where the rhinos were hanging.  A mother daughter duo joined us on our little walk.  Met up with two park rangers who led us, single file, to see the rhinos.  These big guys were very happily lazing under a tree. Took our pictures and walked back.  Geoff and I were both happy we didn't choose the rhino walk.  It was blistering hot.

On the drive out of the park we saw a water buck and a sleeping wart hog, and a female and male bush buck - which we hadn't seen before.  In the park, we passed a small cemetery where they buried malaria victims.  It is said that this was the first place that Livingstone came when he arrived in Zambia. The people took him to the cemetery to show him what malaria was doing to their Then he went on to what is now Livingstone Island. So all in all, we had a pretty good morning and it was interesting talking to both Clive and Patrick.

Before going back to the hotel, Patrick drove us over to the Jewish Museum, which is also housed with the Railway Museum.  A very nice man led us through the museum and told us a bit about the history of Jews in Zambia.  Who knew?

European Jews first came to Zambia at the end of the 19th century while it was still Northern Rhodesia, many settling in its then capital Livingstone. Early arrivals were pioneers looking for better economic opportunities; later they came as refugees fleeing Nazi persecution, mainly from Germany, Lithuania and Latvia.

Zambia was one of the few countries that welcomed them. However, when the country gained independence in 1964 there was an exodus of many who had settled there, including from the Jewish community.

The city’s Jewish Museum, a national monument, tells the story of the Jewish people who settled in and around Livingstone. Although the community was relatively small, it included significant figures in the country’s economical and political life.

The bulk of the funding for the project comes from a bequest by the late David Susman, a distinguished businessman and philanthropist whose father, Elie, and uncles were leading figures in the pioneering of the Zambian economy in the early decades of the last century.

Back at the pool.  At four we took one more walk down to the falls.  Discovered some paths we hadn't walked before and took some parting shots before leaving in the morning. I means how could I not!  We had one inquiry about the camera I use.  It is a small point and shoot Canon SX740  - nothing to special but it does have a 40x zoom.

Brillan took us to the Golden Leaf for Indian food. It was absolutely
delicious.  Great for our last night in Zambia.  When we returned the zebras were taking in the evening entertainment.

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM

Next time... Driving to Botswana