Monday, March 4, 2019

Exploring Again...

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM

After leaving Cape Town and travelling around some, we have said many times "This does not feel like Africa".  It is not the dusty roads and open lands with free range animals and peoples of all kinds mixing a bit more equally together, that we experienced in Tanzania.  The South African cities and towns that we have been through feel more like European cities.  Even the language that you hear, Afrikaans is a bastardized form of Dutch.  Most of what you hear are the German tourists. Even in out of the way places like St. Francis Bay.  But, of course, what really stands out in South Africa is that not too far a field from these pristine cities and towns is the accompanying township which, for the most part, supports the service industry of their neighboring town.  With nor form of transportation, a lot of the roads are lined with hitchhikers trying to get to and from their work everyday.

Again, I do not want to get into any political thesis here.  As I mentioned before the history is complicated.  I had just hoped that after 25 years, things would have progressed.  Obviously, something is not working.  As travelers, we have seen our share of poverty around the world.  But this country is huge, and fought so hard, one hopes that it was for something better than what we are seeing here. There is no doubt, however, that the vistas continue to amaze us.  This is a very beautiful country.

We  have been traveling around now for three weeks and the only wildlife we have seen are cows, sheep, baboons, one stray dog, and squirrels.  Thanks to Cecil B. Rhodes who introduced the squirrel, among other things, to South Africa from England so it would look more like home.  Tomorrow we are off to our first safari.  Three nights at a private game camp - very excited.

Meanwhile, the sun is out in full force this morning and we are off to see what this town is all about. I did learn that before the 1990's not much was here.  It all started when they discovered they had a gold mine in chokka or squid.  White gold they called it.  The fishing grew so popular that they built a harbor and it is the oldest privately owned harbor in the country.

After a wonderful breakfast, we researched the map and all our information and came up with a plan to walk the Two Harbours Hike and then maybe investigate another beach.  Found the head of the trail and voila! there was Bruce's Beauties! This spot is where some of the surfing footage from Bruce Brown's "Endless Summer" was shot was back in the 60's.  Took a couple of photos for neighbor Bruce who will appreciate an Endless Summer.

Followed the path along the coastline taking in the view and keeping an eye out for any sea glass -- not so much.  Everything was going along just fine until my hand got jabbed by a protruding aloe-type plant with a very sharp spiny edge. Poked a hole through a vein. The blood gushed and then the hand turned black and blue and swelled right up. Drama Queen that I am, I went into total panic mode.  And of course, Mr. Calm, was all "It'll be fine."  I wasn't so sure.  After I got the bleeding under control, the swelling started coming down.  Stuck my hand into the salt water.  Calmed down a bit and started on the trail again.

We got about 1/2 way or so and realized the terrain was getting worse - made the decision to turn back before anything else happened.  Back to the car we drove to the other harbor where I popped into the nearest pub and asked for ice.  Not only did the lovely girl give me ice, but she took out a medical kit and gave me antibacterial cream and some antihistamine cream. Felt a bit better about that. 

Walked around the very scenic working waterfront until it was time to look for a beach. Along the way, I really felt that someone should look at this hand. Fortunately, the pharmacy here is like a bit of a clinic.  And really what's a trip without a stop at the clinic!  The very nice man said I would live and sold me some antihistamine cream to put on 4-5 x day.  It is still very bruised looking and sore.  Oh, well it could be worse.  He said that particular plant is not the cleanest but there is a palm that can really do damage if it pricks you.  Great, thanks.

Moved on to Main Beach.  Not much luck here - we tried making camp and we got wet. But proceeded to get blown off the beach as soon as we came out of the water.  Winds were strong today. We tried another beach but no luck there as well.  Gave up and went back to our cozy spot on the canal. Here there was a nice cool breeze, we went swimming in the canal and had lunch on the patio. All good.  Made a reservation with Skipper Brian for an afternoon canal tour.

Brian came right on time, and we had a private ride around the canals.  This is quite the la-di-dah place. Lots of big fancy homes used once a year. It is all relatively new and built to strict code -white houses, black roofs - no diversion!  We had a good chat with Brian who is originally from England. Naturally there was Brexit talk along with the usual Trump topic.  We were out for a little over an hour.  Got back and called my brother.  Unfortunately, before we could finish talking the wifi went dead and so did my phone connection.  Sorry Jerry.

It was time to head out to dinner.  The skies were pretty dark and the winds did not calm down any from during the day.  We had our minds made up on going to the Port and eating at  Chokka's overlooking the marina.  Closed!! Oh boy.  Next we tried the Italian place, which was a bit too stuffy for us and way overpriced.  Now what??  Got out my trusty phone and within minutes came up with the St. Francis Brewery and Grill.  Sounded pretty basic.

The Brewery was a bit hard to find but we eventually figured it out.  This place is like a hippy throw back.  Very relaxing.  Great beer and good food.  The couple running the place were a hoot. Turns out they are into making their own bicycle gear - clothing, caps, and hardwood bikes! Well that's when the conversation really picked up.  Their company is Volk Bikes.  Geoff really wanted one of their
caps but their merch was at home.  They are meeting us at the Pedal & Spoke Cafe in the morning before we leave town, with some stuff for us to look at to buy.  Very cool.

We were hoping to get out to Sunset Rock after dinner to see the sunset but while we were in the brewery the skies opened up and the rain came down.  No sunset tonight.  Besides, we were having a really good time talking to those folks. All in all, we had a very good day exploring and finding out fun facts and fun people and not one tour bus!

CLICK HERE: TODAY'S PHOTO ALBUM

Next time... Traveling to Shamwari

5 comments:

  1. Hey! Thank you for the mention, was great to meet you and we wish you the best on your travels through SA.

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  2. Sorry we couldn't finish our call..love you(you too Geoff). The upside of la-di-dah, it is comfort and pleasant if not exciting and gives your hand a chance to heal.
    Went to the Volk Bikes website and anxious to see which cap Geoff chose.

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  3. Wow, I’m glad you are OK Susan!! Mr. Calm is good for you. :) Love you both, have fun on the safari tomorrow. -Deidre

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  4. You with an injury on vacation? Isn't it a tradition at this point? This one sounded quite ouchy but MUCH less intense than some of your previous excursions to the clinics and hospitals of foreign lands. But - be careful out there!!

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  5. And, thanks for your perspective on the racial mix, or lack thereof, in many places. But if we think about it, our country is not that different. Many, many wealthier or scenic or tourist neighborhoods in many, many regions of the US are fairly non-diverse as well. South Africa's racial apartheid is much more recent than our racial slavery, but the racism is no doubt still brewing there, as it is here. Hopeful that their reconciliation is much more complete in a few decades than ours was in the early 20th century.

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